The Complete Beginner’s Guide to Shooting Low Key
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The Complete Beginner’s Guide to Shooting Low Key

Tutorial Details
  • Difficulty: Intermediate
  • Requirements: Suitable Lighting Equipment
  • Completion Time: 2-3 hours
This entry is part 6 of 8 in the Lighting Session
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Recently, we took a look at how to create stunning high key images in a studio environment, producing bright images with an emphasis on beauty and clarity. Today we’ll jump to the other side of the lighting spectrum and examine what low key lighting is and how you can achieve it in your own work.


What is Low Key Lighting?

Low key refers to a style of photography that utilizes predominantly dark tones to create a dramatic looking image. Where high key lighting seeks to over light the subject to the point of reduced contrast, low key lighting intensifies the contrast in an image through intensely reduced lighting.

low key photography tutorial

The key here is not just to produce a dark image but to use lighting very selectively so that only specific portions of the image are illuminated. Normally as a photographer, you spend your time trying to avoid harsh shadows, especially on faces and around the subject’s eyes. For this reason, shooting low key can actually be a fun change of pace.

Instead of avoiding intense shadows, you’ll have to consider them as the primary element of the composition; one that defines the mood of the entire photograph. The trick then becomes manipulating your lighting and the positioning of your subject so that the shadows fall in just the right spots to create the look you want.


Low Key Lighting In Art

Artists recognized the power of low key lighting long before photographers came around. Painters during the Renaissance and Baroque periods often used a technique known as “chiaroscuro” to achieve a similar dramatic tone for their images. Chiaroscuro comes from the Italian “chiaro” meaning clear/light and “oscuro” meaning obscure/dark.

Chiaroscuro was used not only for drama but also to bring realism to a painting. The varied lighting creates a sense of three dimensional depth that can be quite stunning.

low key photography tutorial

One of my favorite artists that utilized this technique was Caravaggio. He created several works, such as The Incredulity of Saint Thomas (seen above), that really capture the essence of what chiaroscuro was all about. Other great examples of artists who used this technique include Gerrit Van Honthorst, Tintoretto, El Greco and even Rembrandt to a lesser degree.


Low Key in the Studio

If you have your own photo studio, there are lots of ways to setup low key shots that will give you fantastic results. First, make sure you have a large black backdrop. As a general rule, try to avoid hitting with any lights in such a way that it shows texture, wrinkles, etc.

You can definitely have a low key portrait with other types of backdrops, but this will help you achieve that classy solid black look that comes to mind when you think of low key photography.

low key photography tutorial

For an easy and affordable setup, position your subject a bit away from the backdrop and use a single flash off to one side. Also, make sure you turn the power way down on the flash so it doesn’t blow out your subject too much.

low key photography tutorial

This should give you fairly dramatic results with all the lighting biased towards one side of the image as in the example below. Notice how a little bit of the backdrop is illuminated in this image. Depending on your specific preferences, this could be either desirable or something to watch out for and try to prevent.

low key photography tutorial

If you want to provide a little backlighting, consider dropping in a reflector and/or placing another flash well behind the subject and off to the side. This will give you some nice hair light and can often create a sort of halo effect.

low key photography tutorial

As always, don’t expect to nail it on your first shot. Play around with different locations for both your light and your subject as well as different intensities for your flash. Resist the urge to think too much about what you can pull back out of the image in Photoshop and try to create the results you want up front. Getting into this habit will force you to learn the ins and outs of your equipment better and reduce the time spent in post-production.


Low Budget Low Key

If you’re not lucky enough to have your own home studio, fret not. There are still plenty of ways to get a decent low key shot on a shoestring budget using only your camera and common household resources.

One trick that I’ve seen quite often is to use a two room setup with a door. The main room should be one that you can get completely dark, preferably with no windows or other natural sources of light. With the room as dark as you can make it, position your subject somewhere in front of the door.

low key photography tutorial

Now setup a bright light in the other room, also in front of the doorway. The door serves as a way to block and control the light coming from the other room. To get the shot, just stand in front of the wall out of the way of the light coming in.

You might also want to setup some sort of reflector card behind the light as in the image above. You can use posterboard , paper or something else cheap that you have around that will bounce the light effectively.

Another take on this same setup is to use a window instead of a door. This is a little trickier as a window tends to light up the entire room but can be accomplished with great results under just the right conditions and by using a thick window shade to soften the light.


Outside Low Key

Another great way to get some nice low key shots without spending a fortune on lighting is to venture outside at night. Here nature takes care of the darkness element and you need only find a good light source.

Moonlight and streetlights are obviously great places to start. Parking lots are also perfect places to find drastically variable lighting conditions ideal for creating really dramatic shots.

low key photography tutorial


Camera Settings

For low key shots, the camera settings can actually vary quite widely. The trick is to minimize the light entering the camera while not making everything too dark. To illustrate, let’s take a look at some actual shots along with their respective settings.

low key photography tutorial

Here we see a nice solid black background and one primary light source. From the Flickr properties we can see that the exposure is at 1/80 sec, the aperture is f/6.3 and the ISO is at 100. Normally an ISO that low would produce an image that’s too dark under anything but decently bright conditions but here dark is exactly what the photographer wanted and the flash in conjunction with the reduced shutter speed served to fill out the areas that he wanted to expose.

The bonus of shooting at ISO 100 is that the image quality stays high and void of color noise, which has a tendency to really stand out against a black background. Let’s take a look at one more image and see if we spot any similarities.

low key photography tutorial

As you can see, even though this image is brighter, it was actually shot at 1/200 sec, significantly faster than the previous image. Although the aperture is letting in less light at f/13, the ISO is the same and it looks like there’s more available light in the scene. The extra light enables the photographer to shoot at a faster shutter speed while still pulling in plenty of detail.

The primary takeaway from these two images is to try your best to keep your ISO around 100-200 to keep the image both dark and noise-free. You’ll have to then play with your exposure and aperture to achieve the desired effect for your particular lighting setup.


Low Key Explored

The example images above are primarily portraiture, but you should definitely not stop there in your experimentation with low key lighting. Low key is excellent for product shots and anything else you really want to make look cool and stylish. Here are a few more images to get you thinking outside the box.


Tumbler Batmobile

flickr pic

Serve Chilled

flickr pic

Cherry Tomatos

flickr pic

White flower in black background

flickr pic

On black_3535

flickr pic

budding

flickr pic

eat me

flickr pic

curl

flickr pic

Pink Daisy

flickr pic


Conclusion

To sum up, low key lighting is a highly dramatic way of enhancing the contrast in an image that has roots tracing way back to the Baroque period and beyond. You can achieve this effect indoors with studio equipment or some ingenuity and outside at night in a dark area with a well-placed light source.

As always, we want to give you an opportunity to show off your work. Leave a comment below with a link to your low key shots along with a quick explanation of your lighting setup and camera settings.

Tags: Basix
  • http://www.nouveller.com/ Benjamin Reid

    I love the low key shots but you forgot to mention a few handy processes, I suggest people who are still a bit lost to look at Rick Nunn’s post on shooting low key shots http://ricknunn.com/how-i-shoot-lowkey-portrait/.

    The (light) histogram is very much your friend in this case.

  • http://stekkes.deviantart.com/ Stijn Vandermeulen

    Here is mine: http://www.flickr.com/photos/stekkes/4521710994/ just used the built in LED from my cellphone as lightning:)

    • http://www.designshack.net Josh Johnson
      Author

      Seriously for a cell phone light that’s dang impressive!

  • Dan

    Great article. This is the sort of stuff I want to see more of. Lighting tuts etc.

  • http://www.svengiesen.de Sven

    Nice and basic roundup of lowkey photography.

    But theres one mistake. The camera settings of picture 2 show an aperture of F13.

    The sentence “The aperture here is letting in much more light,” is wrong in this case. Instead, the camera of picture one with F6.3 lets in more light. I think that theres only a brighter lightsource an so the photographer had to close the aperture more.

  • http://www.henryhingst.com Henry Hingst

    Honestly, one thing i can’t do is this type of photography.

    Just because my backgrounds aren’t darker enough.

    How do I improve the darkness?

    Thank ya!

    • http://www.jclossphoto.com Jeff

      Some tips.

      Move your subject away from the background, and have your light source as your only light source if possible. You can overpower the cameras ability to detect light if the contrast is high enough – more light on subject, far less light on background.

      You can also build a grid or snoot (or gridded snoot) for your flash: http://lightingmods.blogspot.com/2007/06/diy-black-straws-snoot-grid-part-1.html This will help you to have your light fall where you want it… I’ve even built grids for fixture lighting when I was using a fluorescent tube to light some small objects I was shooting, just adapted the basic idea.

      Shoot at a low ISO to pick up less ambient light and less noise. Shoot at a higher aperture to restrict the amount of light entering your lens (f8 – 11 is a good place to start, experiment from there) which will give you great depth of field, something that often looks good in low key photography.

      Just some tips, hope they help.

  • http://www.vaporizerkits.com Zephyr Ion

    I love that you added the diagrams of where the lights, reflector, people, camera are to be positioned!

  • Kris Hunt

    > The aperture here is letting in much more light…

    No it isn’t. The aperture is set to f/13, which lets in much less light than f/6.3.

  • http://www.jclossphoto.com Jeff

    “The aperture here is letting in much more light, the ISO is the same and it looks like there’s more available light in the scene.”

    The context is that the shot this is referring to is at f13. The previous shot referred to was f6.3 Yes, there was more available light, lots more, as f13 is a far narrower aperture than f6.3, letting far LESS light into the scene.

    I honestly approach all articles written by Josh Johnson with the understanding that he has absolutely no idea how aperture works, how to explain it, or what it does.

    Lower f number = wider aperture = more light = shallower depth of field
    Higher f number = narrower aperture = less light = greater depth of field

    Yes, this is simplifying things a bit, but really? Why am I reading the exact same mistake, repeatedly, in the same author’s articles? Can the editors please buy him a basic photography book, or at least look for this error that seems to show up in all his tutorials? For reference, you can see almost the same comment by me posted in his own linked article (which he never answers in comments) here: http://photo.tutsplus.com/tutorials/lighting/beginners-guide-to-shooting-high-key/

    I really expect more from tuts+ – this is misleading information, and the right information should not have to be provided via comments. I’m beginning to feel like an xkcd comic… “I can’t come to bed honey, someone is WRONG on the internet!”

    • Kris Hunt

      Wow. I thought maybe he saw the 22mm focal length and got it confused with f/22, but apparently not.

    • http://www.facebook.com/david.gosnell David Gosnell

      It doesn’t help when people refer to apertures as F13 etc in the first place. They should be expressed as f/13 etc, which helps explain why the larger number = a smaller hole.

  • http://davidappleyard.net David Appleyard
    Staff

    Hi Guys – We’ve fixed the inaccuracy. Thanks for pointing it out.

    • http://jclossphoto.com Jeff

      Thanks David.

      In retrospect, I partially apologise for being so “ranty” in my pointing it out. (Is a partial apology an apology?) The part I apologise for is the “rantiness” of the comment – the part I don’t is being annoyed by the constant inaccuracy.

      I’m a professional photographer – so I see the error – but to someone new this can be tough. Wrapping your head around the f-stop scale can be tough for people already – not to mention having the issue clouded by wrong information.

      This is not the first time it’s happened. (And yes, editorial mistakes happen all the time, I’m aware of that, no worries.) This is a consistent issue with this contributor.

      And to be honest, I actually like Josh’s articles. They aren’t perfect (they’re for beginners, they don’t need to get too deep) but they are a great general overview. Now that this article is updated and corrected I will happily pass it on to others. Perhaps this issue is just a pet peeve of mine.

      Above all, thanks for fixing this. Josh, even though I said I expect you to be wrong about aperture, (and I do *grin*) I do like your writing style, and look forward to more of these guides. Just please, please, invest some time into making sure your aperture instructions come out right! ;)

  • http://devwijewardane.blogspot.com Dev Wijewardane

    Hi,

    Here’s one of a wheel of a Mazda.

    http://www.flickr.com/photos/wijew/4710921031

  • http://www.bimaltailor.co.uk Bim

    Thanks for this. This is very helpful. Will be refering back to this…
    Is this low key? http://www.flickr.com/photos/bimma/4768765643/

  • Davide Di Bucchianico

    Very interesting tutorial, i’ve always been fascinated to low key photography. I don’t have a studio and never shot in one though, so there’s one question: with the setup shown in the first diagram, how do you prevent the light from hitting the backdrop? in case you want the completely black background like in House’s pic….

    • http://jclossphoto.com Jeff

      Disclaimer: I dont have a studio either, nor have I ever shot in one.

      The best way to get the background black is not evident in the diagram, but the diagram is correct. If you pull your subject out from the background, even with light spill, you should be able to make the background disappear. Remember, in the example the background is black, which reflects less light for the camera to pick up than the subject does. Because the subject is closer than the background, less light reaches the background.

      Someone linked a super good article earlier to Rick Nunns article on the subject. ( http://ricknunn.com/how-i-shoot-lowkey-portrait/.) What he does is sets his shutter speed to his fastest sync speed, lowers the ISO to around 100 and takes test shots at higher apertures (letting in less light each time) until his histogram is flat, showing no ambient light being recorded. Then he lights his subject with a flash, preferably away from the background, so that only the subject is lit on a seamless black background.

      Because of the contrast, you get a really nice black background. Ive done the same thing by shooting small objects in a sunbeam. If you meter for a very well lit object in a dimly lit scene, you should be able to make the entire background disappear, as Ive done here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/suprspi/4360178175/in/set-72157623348034238/

      The room was brightish, but the sunlight beam lighting the flower was so much brighter than ambient that that was all that was captured. The heart shaped out of focus highlights are from a string of christmas lights in the background, nearly overpowered themselves.

      Hope this helps, honestly, read Ricks article and youve read this one. Go out and try it, itll make a lot more sense. You can also email me if you need explanation in greater detail.

      • Davide Di Bucchianico

        thank you for your reply. actually, after posting here i red rick nunn’s article, and inspired by the reader that used his mobile to shed light on his face, i tried a self portrait using the bright light from my 26″ monitor in a pretty dark room, and after a few trials i managed to make the background pitch black, even if it wasn’t. thanks a lot, also discovering nunn’s blog was awesome, i never thought i could get a decent off camera flash + umbrella and remote trigger so cheap, i’m definitely gonna buy a kit and get into strobism soon :)

        • http://jclossphoto.com Jeff

          I’ve been using my 430EX speedlight for fill, especially with backlit sun shots recently. I’d pondered the idea of a couple umbrella boxes etc. to start out – but I have to say Rick’s blog inspired me as well. I’ve got a bunch of ebay auctions watched so that I can go buy a couple more flashes and gear as soon as I get my next cheque.

          Cheers!

  • Andre Maillet

    Hows this for low key? Defiantly going to use this tut!
    http://andremaillet.deviantart.com/art/Self-Portrait-ID-160125231

    single soft box on a studio light, set prettttty low, Im pretty sure it was a dark blue backdrop, but had the aperture up high enough so that no light showed up on it.

  • http://www.facebook.com/k0rig4n Florian
  • http://chaquejoursuffit.com Fraydo

    Here is mine : http://chaquejoursuffit.com/index.php?showimage=88

    Just because my background (desktop) is darker enough ;)

  • Campanilla
  • http://www.alpaproductions.com alpaproductions

    This just gave me so many ideas. I’m doing my brother’s CD album now and I think I will do a second photoshot just to try this effect (even though I don’t actually have the lights)

  • http://www.flickr.com/photos/andre_klang/ Andre Klang

    Heres my fist real go at low key..

    http://www.flickr.com/photos/andre_klang/4823068305

  • http://www.flickr.com/photos/nilsensbilder Anders

    http://www.flickr.com/photos/nilsensbilder/2431432071/
    I took the photo of the flower outside in bright daylight and achieved the black background by holding an A4 black cardboard behind the flower. The black cardboard became so black because it was in the shadows while the flower was in the sun.

  • http://www.guzeltravestiler.com travesti

    Great article. This is the sort of stuff I want to see more of.

  • http://nick.aldwin.us/ Nick

    Thanks for featuring my photo :), but attribution would have been nice (per the license: http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc/2.0/ )

  • Samantha

    Thanks for this article, I especially found the diagrams of how to set up the lights helpful.

  • Samantha

    This was very helpful, especially the diagrams!

  • http://robertmalcolm.co.uk Robert

    The thing about the F13/F6.7 difference is mainly that in the F13 shot the subject fills more of the image and so there is more REFLECTED light entering the lens in proportion to the visible background. The light isn’t necessarily more powerful.

    If you’d all learned on film, when ‘chimping’ was probably something illegal to do with apes, you would have concentrated on learning this (because your crappy shots would have cost you time, effort and money)

    :D

  • http://www.flickr.com/photos/edster951 Eddie Griffiths

    I use one flash/strobe

    Nikon D90 with 55-200 lens at 85mm

    Manual settings 1/200 at f8

    Flash on manual 1/8 power if I recal

    Subject 1m in front of navey curtain

    http://www.flickr.com/photos/edster951/6004508937/in/set-72157627414045048

  • mac

    I’m confused about something. On the first image under “Camera settings” the settings say the flash did not fire, but then below you say ” flash in conjunction with the reduced shutter speed served…” Did the flash fire in this shot. Really looking for some help here. My shots aren’t coming out right.

  • http://delayfoto.ru VadimG

    Pictures of apples with water spray. It turned out interesting, but there are drawbacks.
    Tuturial: http://delayfoto.ru/home-studio/fotografiruem-edu.html
    Photo: http://delayfoto.ru/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/IMG_4520342134_550.jpg
    I hope you enjoy :)

  • Mike brooks

    My 1st attempt… Single lamp a canon 40d and me. http://m.flickr.com/#/photos/14575683@N03/7357985916/in/photostream/