Tutorial Details
- Difficulty: Intermediate
- Completion Time: 24 Hours
- Requirements: See equipment list below
Final Product What You'll Be Creating
Nowadays a softbox needn’t be all that expensive – you can get nice results for $100 or even less. But what if there’s a way of making it much cheaper, with the same results? That’s what we’ll be explaining in this DIY tutorial; how to make a softbox with professional results for less than $20.
Step 1: What is a Softbox?
A Softbox is a type of light modifier, used specially in studio or outdoor portraits. It creates a soft diffused light by directing light through some diffusing material. The light is reflected in its inner walls, covered with a bright surface, usually aluminum foil, bouncing against a white diffusion sheet.
It can be used with either strobe light or continuous light sources. The main purpose of a softbox is to create a soft and uniform light, often used as key light. Also, it’s perfect for lighting a studio, where every inch of bright area is important.
Step 2: Materials required
In order to build the softbox, this is all you need:
- Large cardboard
- Tape
- Aluminium foil
- Glue
- Velcro straps
- Screws and nuts
- Paper roll (at least 40 inch wide, and 50 inch large)
- Black spray
Step 3: Drawing and Measuring
In this tutorial, we’ll explain how to create a 30×25 inch softbox, but this method will work for any size. Just remember to keep in mind proportions in order to make it correctly.
First of all, you need to draw the four sides of the softbox in trapezoid shape. The first two sides will be the large ones, and then the other two the short ones.
The lower part of the trapezoid will be 30 inches long. The side walls have a 45º angle. The upper part of the shape will be the length of your flash head, in my case, it’s 3 inches. Next, repeat the process again to have the two large sides of the softbox.
Afterwards, it’s time for the short sides. The lower part is 25 inches long, and the upper one, the height of your flash head. At this point, the angle of the sides is not so important, it’s a little more than 60º, but to make it easier, simply use the length of the sides of the walls you made before.
Step 4: Cutting the Four Walls
Now that you have the four sides of the softbox – two large and two small ones- , it’s time to cut the cardboard carefully. Remember to leave a small amount of cardboard in the upper part, about 2-3 inches long, because that’s where the flash goes. Cut every piece using a cutter, and place the finished ones aside.
Step 5: Making the Inner Part
Once you have everything cut, use some glue and cover every piece of cardboard with aluminum foil (but only one side). You can use aluminum tape along the borders to fix it more securely. This part will reflect the light of the flash, making it stronger and more powerful. Just in case, use two layers of aluminum foil, to ensure everything will stay intact for a long time.
Step 6: Adding the Velcro Straps
Next, take the two short walls – those with the short part at the top – and tape two velcro straps on it. A large one, about 6 inches, and a short one, 2 inches. Also, staple it carefully and double tape it, to make it more resistant. These two straps will keep the flash from falling, and will hold it still.
Step 7: Gluing and Mounting
Once you have everything in order, it’s time to assemble the softbox. The order is very simple. First, take a large side, then a short one, then the other large one, and finally the remaining side. Tape it well and glue it, with large amount of glue and tape, just to secure every part, so that it won’t tear apart.
Remember to tape the upper part, where the flash goes, too. A good way to check that it’s properly built is to lift the softbox holding the upper part. If it doesn’t move, then it’s ok. If it’s moving and unstable, add more tape until everything is secure.
Step 8: Painting
After waiting a few minutes, you can paint your softbox to make it look a lot considerably more professional. Use old newspapers and some tape to protect the parts you don’t want to paint, like the upper hole. I used black spray to make the process a little simpler. After it dries, add another layer of color, and then leave it drying overnight.
Step 9: Building and Adjusting the Tripod Adaptor
Once you have the softbox almost finished, it’s time to make the tripod adaptor. Use an L shaped aluminum bracket, and place the large side of it on the softbox. Make some holes in the softbox, just in the middle of the short side. Then, using some screws and nuts, place the bracket and screw it on, making sure that it’s stable and not moving.
To use this bracket, you’ll also need a light stand and a light stand mount swivel, easy to find on eBay, for example, for just only $10. To mount it, the easiest way is to insert the L bracket in the flash mount gently.
Step 10: Making the Diffusion Panel
Now it’s time to mount the diffusion panel, made of paper. Extend the paper roll on the floor, place the softbox face down on it, and carefully glue the paper to every side. You can also add more layers if you’d like to make the light much softer, and also more uniform and equal. Remember that the more layers you add, the lower the power of the light.
Of course, if the paper tears, you can always repeat this process at a later date.
Step 11: Mounting the Flash
Finally, it’s time to mount the softbox on the light stand, and then place the flash in the hole. In order to do this, hold the flash gently and insert it in the hole, pressing carefully until it fits snugly. Proceed to secure it using the velcro straps.
The reason to use the flash horizontally is to have more flexibility moving the softbox. You can use it pointing down, up, or in a 45º angle, for example.
Step 12: Final result
All you need to do now is to experiment taking a few photos with your brand new softbox! It produces wonderful, soft light, lighting an entire person, for example. I always use it in the studio as main light, without needing anything else.
It’s great for making dramatic portraits, by pointing it at a side of a model, or producing soft beauty images. Here are some examples. The first one is using only the softbox, at camera right at full power. It produces a high-contrast look. The other two were made using the softbox as main source, along with another two bare strobes – one on each side as rim light.
Give it a Try!
What are you waiting for? Dig out that old cardboard box sat in your garage, and give the process a try! If you do decide to go ahead with putting your own softbox together, be sure to share a few photos of it in the comments below.
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By Roland Dan
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Yes, God is prepared. I make sure and we’ll put a video on YouTube. OK? A great video tutorial. Good Stuff! Thank you very much for you!
Peter
Great article, must give this a try
I always like these low cost solutions!
Great tut!
Aye, I really appreciate this. Hope to construct one some day once I have the time and space. Thank you!
Totally awesome and well explained tut. Will go very well with the seamless white backdrop tut
You are so genius!
this is what I want it for a long long time.
pretty good!!
thanks a lot!
Awesome tutorial!
Would be nice if you could add the metric-translations of your sizes though..
I imagine this would help people save some time instead of searching it up!
had to do this myself right away (a little smaller though) – worked out great!
Great tutorial. Haha I can imagine seeing these at photography shoots, LOL.
hey a great tut and amazing shots to prove the usability too…its tutorials like these that inspire people like me who thik that photography does not require a great load of money just a keen eye and an open mind
looks really good!!!
Great tutorial, very good explanation, is appreciated.
I am always up for a way to save a pound or two and use a lot of DIY equipment for my strobes. This is one of the better and stronger designs I have seen, thank you!
Roland .. you’re so creative! thanks for share .. god job
This is a great tutorial and really helpful for many who are just starting and want something simple that works. However, this will give clients the impression that youre not really a pro. I think that is the only down side to using this.
Wow, the photos look awesome.. Maybe i’ll build something like this
Great tutorial! I just made one myself following your instructions. I also made a blog post explaining some possible improvement to your design. http://blog.alberto-ferrero.it/2010/07/softbox-diy.html
I referred to your tutorial all along the post, as I am “The dwarf on the shoulders of giants”
Thanks a lot
Hey, thanks for all your kind words
And yes, I agree with your comment, alpaproductions. When you’re a pro, using DIY stuff doesn’t really help you, so this will work fine when you’re starting with this, but maybe you should get a proper softbox when you actually want to be a pro.
Alberto, it was nice seeing other softbox made! Using that white hard paper thing was a good idea, nice job!
this is great man, thanks alot. I will definitely do this, making it my third diy softbox haha. My other 2 are 100% free lol, a box, foil and paper all at home
heres a quick timelapse video of it
http://www.vimeo.com/9371195
This is great.
I going to try to make this soon.
for continuous light sources, what do you recommend instead of flash? i don’t have external flash
Amir you can get a “portable clamp worklight” and a 5000K CFL bulb for under $10 USD total. I use this setup on my softbox for continuous light. CFL bulbs don’t get hot either. ; )
Joseph:
What wattage 5000K CFL would you recommend?
Amir, Joseph, I am also working on one for use with a continuous light source. The question lies in creating a connection of the lighting mount to the box, whether using a work light like Joseph said or like how I’m looking to use a 3 way bulb, so that I have control over the brightness of light. I think I’m going to look for a lightweight plastic box and secure it to a softbox made from Elmer’s foamboard. Instead of aluminum foil, couldn’t the silver gift wrap be used? I have also picked up some sport ripstop nylon from the fabric store to use on the front with 2 sides glued and the the other 2 with Velcro(to be able to change the bulb). I’m thinking of gluing black fabric on the outside to get a cleaner look too.
Attaching this to a light stand with a Super Clamp – hope it all works.
Great Tut! I think I’ll give it a try too. If I do not have a slave or detachable flash, what kind of light bulb would you suggest I use as a substitute? Would a CFL daylight bulb work? I don’t want that annoying yellowish tint from a regular bulb. Look forward to more of your Tuts!
lovely. i’m wondering just 1 thing: isn’t it risky, flash-wise? i mean, are those velcro straps on a cardboard base really secure for holding a flash that you don’t really want to drop on the floor? O_o
Hey,
Well, the flash actually sticks to the cardboard because the hole is not big, so you’ll need to push your flash in. The velcro is just in case
you must change the angle on the 2nd smaller ones. If not, then they will come out much shorter
This may sound stupid, but what exactly is paper roll?
cheers
May i ask what did you use to connect the flash to your camera? Was your cord wireless? What would you recommend for a Nikon D3100?
where do you get the flash from? what kind of flash is it?
Any suggestions for someone who doesnt have a tripod? please..
Excelente, muchas gracias porque está muy bien explicado….al fin alguien se dio el trabajo!
Rossy
you can make a tripod out of PVC pipes for under $20 google DIY light stands for photography. And I had the same questions as Cristian U. about the flash. Can you program your camera to set off a certian flash wirelessly
This is an amazing tutorial. I just wanted to ask what kind of flash do you have mounted in the pictures?
Thanks for putting this up!!
Not bad idea, but its really far from “professional softbox” – a little overstatement. I was trying to find a professional softbox and when I opened this…so, I think you get it.
I love this tutorial, the calculations were a little off for me but my dad and i figured them out and successfully built one softbox so far. I did use the idea of using the portalble clamp lights but am running into trouble I’m not so good with studio and flash I was going to use these softboxes as my main lighting I will have two of them what type of bulb and wattage should I use for indoor portraits? Can you give me any suggestions for that? I bought a 120 watt and 65 watt flood lights. I also used so far one sheet of muslin for my diffuser material do you think this will work? Any help with the lighting would be awesome!