9 Tips for Making Lovely Landscapes

9 Tips for Making Lovely Landscapes

Today, we are going to look at 9 tips for improving your landscape photography. Nature can be an incredibly difficult thing to shoot. We’ll cover what equipment to bring, focus and composition issues and more. With the help of these tips, we hope to make shooting landscapes a bit easier.

Pack the right gear

Wide angle lens - A wide angle is a must with landscape photography, often you will want to capture as much of the scene as possible. If you are serious about landscape photography, think about upgrading from your kit lens to a dedicated wide angle prime such as 14mm or 20mm F2.8.

If you have room for a telephoto, you may as well pack it. Often you cannot get close to that perfect location and you occasionally have to shoot a scene from a great distance away.

Tripod - Come evening time, you are going to need a tripod to keep your camera nice and still. If a tripod is too large to carry around, why not try a tripod alternative such as a gorrillapod?

Cable release - A cable release or camera remote (or just using the self-timer) will always be helpful so you don’t shake your camera by pushing the shutter release at the beginning of a long exposure shot.

Spare battery - When shooting long exposures on a cold night, you will find that having a fully charged spare battery is very handy.

Filters

Filters are an important part of landscape photography. You’ll find them useful when you’re out on a shoot. Just remember that placing any glass over your lens can lower the quality of the image, so if possible try to buy the best filter you can afford rather than using cheap unbranded filters. I would recommend shooting with Hoya, Lee or Cokin.

So what filters should you take?

If you can only take one filter out with you it has to be a polarizer. Polarizing filters remove reflections from non-metallic surfaces. As landscape photographers, this helps us as it takes out the reflection of water drops in the air, effectively darkening our skies. This gives the sky that deep blue colour, polarizers can also enhance the other colours in the shot.

Don’t use too wide of a lens with a polarizing filter ( 28mm max) because the image becomes unevenly polarized.

It is nearly impossible to recreate the effects of a polarizing filter in Photoshop or other post production software. For more information and some advice on choosing a polarizer, look at this article here.

I would also recommend purchasing a set of neutral density filters. These help block out light and can allow you to shoot longer exposures. ND10 filters are currently very popular as they drop your exposure by a entire 10 stops. Graduated neutral density filters are even more helpful as they can be positioned to darken half the image, like a the bright sky, leaving the landforms intact. This also helps achieve deep blue skies on bright days.

Credits to Alan Hern for the image. – Link

Get up early

Sunrise and sunset are the perfect hours for landscape photography. Photographers often calling them the ‘golden hours’ or the ‘magic hours.’ When the sun peaks over the edge of the horizon, your sky will slowly be transformed into that lovely orange colour. The sun also provides another point of interest in your photos. REMEMBER, don’t stare at the sun, even through your camera!

When the sun is rising or setting the white balance will change due to the amount of atmosphere the sun’s rays must pass through. I would advice you to shoot RAW as it allows you to play around with the white balance afterwards.

Getting the right exposure can also be tricky. The tip I was taught a few years back was to use bracketing on your camera. So instead of just one photo you shoot a series of images (normally 3): one underexposed, one normal and one overexposed. This is often used for HDR photography, but was originally used to make sure the right exposure was achieved. By shooting at few different exposures, you’re just making sure our photos are perfect.

Have a look at Airlight: Photographing the Edge of Darkness, a video tutorial on shooting with limited light.

Credits to Garry for the image – Link

The Horizon

My top tip is too keep your horizons straight. It takes seconds to lower your tripod leg or move your tripod head, and it will save you time in post when you have to straighten everything. Rotating in post also means losing some of the edges of your image.

If you want to make sure your camera is perfectly straight, then I would suggest buying one of Photojoto’s awesome level camera cubes, which sits in the flash hot shoe. The newest range of Canon and Nikon cameras do also contain a built-in leveling tool which is pretty actuate.

Credits to Pepijn Hof for the image – Link

Panoramics

Modern software allows you to stitch photos together much more effectively than ever before. Photoshop has moved a long way since CS2 with the newest version, taking advantage of the new 3D features to allow you merge 360 degree panos and wrap them perfectly.

With a standard kit lens at the widest setting you could snap a whole 360 degree panoramic in 5-8 shots.

Lots of new cameras are also including software to merge panoramic images in camera as well, which is always worth trying out.

Check out 40 Inspiring Panoramic Photographs for some inspiration.

Find something to focus on

What keeps a lot of landscapes from being successful is that they don’t have any main focus. A main focus can be anything of interest which captures the eye of the viewer. When choosing your location try to find something that is interesting in the foreground as well as the background. For example, in a beach scene find a rock pool, beach ball or something similar to position in the foreground.

Look for lines in the image. I will use the beach example again. If you can find a set of rocks leading up to your main focus point, use them. Your eye naturally looks for lines and people instantly to follow them.

Credits to wili_hybrid for the image – Link

Shoot at night

Locations instantly change when the sun goes down. Cities are a classic example; all the lights come on and then your looking at a completely different photo.

If you are able to visit a location during the day (maybe approaching sunset) and then stay until it gets dark, you will end up with two very different styles of landscape photography.

Have a look into the following Phototuts+ tutorials for more tips:

Shooting an Incredible Lit Landscape From Start to Finish by Cameron Knight

Quick Tip: How to Capture the Beauty of Stars by Simon Bray

Shooting at Night: 4 Photography Scenarios Explained by Josh Johnson

Use your histogram

The histogram is simply a graph that shows you the distribution of the tones: shadows, midtones, and highlights. Almost every camera contains a histogram function.

The histogram graph goes from very dark, dark, medium, light, very light.  Histograms for most images look like a mountain range. You want to be able to see the beginning and the end of the range. The left and right edges should be at zero. This will indicate that the photo has exposed correctly, its often a better way to judge your photos than looking at them on preview!

Understand histograms is a vast topic and deserve a tutorial of their own. Luckily we already have a few here on Phototuts+, check them out!.

How to Use the Histogram by Daniel Sone.

Video Introduction to Digital Photography – Part 2 by Simon Plant

Research

Finding locations can be a lot of work. My tip is to use Google to look for scenes of beauty in your area. Another option is hoping online and looking for great dog walks. I don’t have dog but those who do often pick very scenic places to spend time with their canines. Internet dog forums and other dog sites are great places to find walking suggestions.

Also, be sure to double check that you are not trespassing on private land.

I would suggest taking some business cards out with you, so if anyone questions you what you are doing, you can hand them out. Near where I live there is a nuclear power station. I once was hanging around for an hour waiting for a long exposure shot with a large telephoto lens…. lets just say its only a matter of time before someone questions what you are doing.

If you own a smart phone its a good chance you will have a GPS, when you are out and don’t have your camera on you, you can save the GPS coordinate to come back to it on a later date.

If shooting cities or popular tourist destinations, I would suggest picking up a guide book or once again, give it a Google search before you go. Here on Phototuts+ we also have a few specific guides for shooting in Hong Kong, London and Melbourne.

Other articles on Phototuts+

How To a Capture Stunning Fine Art Landscape Photograph:

120+ Magnificent Natural Landscape Photographs:

Achieve Beautiful Landscape Photos with a Neutral Density Filter

13 Steps for Creative Coastline Photography

Thanks For Reading!

I hope these tips and ideas will be useful. Post up your own favorite landscape shots, share you favorite locations for shooting landscapes, or share you favorite tip for this part of photography below in the comments!

  • Blanko

    Nice article. Thank you for this good tips. For the part “Find something to focus on” I suggest this link : http://photo.tutsplus.com/tutorials/shooting/using-hyperfocal-distance-to-ensure-maximum-depth-of-field-in-landscape-photography/. A very constructive tutorial about DOF.

  • Sam

    Tripod – Whether it’s sunny or evening, you should ALWAYS be shooting with a tripod when doing landscape. Beginners don’t use tripods enough.

    Wide Angle – If they’re shooting a full-frame body, 14mm is WAY too wide for most landscapes (unless you want fisheye distortion), that wide of lens should be the last lens you pick up, not the first. Even 20mm is a superwide on full frame. And “if you have room” is just bad advice, telephotos are JUST as important in landscape photography. Most the time, the mountain or whatever you’re shooting is so far away that a wide angle would be far too wide to frame your subject effectively. Both types of lenses are equally important in landscape photography.

    Filters – I completely disagree. The first filter you should have with you is a graduated neutral density filter. At least 50% of landscapes involve a bright sky and darker foreground. A graduated ND filter will allow you to take the sky down by a couple stops so the mountain/lake or whatever else you’re shooting won’t be under-exposed and the sky over-exposed. This is landscape shooting 101 stuff. Circular polarizers are fine, but can cause more problems than they solve. And there are MANY post processing things you can do to bring out the rich colors of the sky, but you can’t account for a blown-out sky or clipped blacks.

    I’m also concerned that I never see your photos in your articles. It would be nice to learn from an actual, experienced photographer instead of someone who’s just taking others photos and regurgitating information he finds online to create an article. If I was learning how to cook, I’d like to taste the chef’s own food to know whether or not I should learn from him… know what I mean? Anybody could have swiped photos from flickr and whipped up this article. Let’s get some pro’s around here!

    And good god, holy spelling and grammar mistakes batman!

    • http://Psdtutorials.co.uk Peter Sawyer

      Thanks for the extra tips and constructive criticism.

      I will answer each -

      Tripod – I agree if you are able to use one where ever you are it would be great, however often they are a burden to carry around and you often actually need one for every single shot.

      Superwides I find are personally great for landscapes and even a 14mm on a full frame produce awesome results. (examples like the Canon 14mm f/2.8 L) However I can understand your point. I personally always carry my telephoto, however don’t always use it – its very hit and miss.

      I carry around both a polariser and ND filters with me. Personally I end up with the polariser more….. but this again might just be personal preference.

      My photos – I try to use at least 50/50 but recently have taken a full time job ( as a graphics designer). So I have been struggling to get out as much as I use to. However I do agree with your point 100%. I will make more of an effort to use my own pictures again. I have got a two week break away soon and plan to be shooting almost everyday, so expect more of my own images in next months articles.

      I always spell check my articles using Adobe Dreamweaver’s spell checker. So I might try to reset it to default settings as it might have accidentally remembered incorrect spellings of words.

      • http://www.shaneparkerphoto.com Shane Parker

        Hi Peter,

        Sam does have a point. Since you’re addressing landscapes, you should almost always have a tripod, or at the very least, a monopod (which are much lighter if you’re backpacking in somewhere).

        Also, super-wide lenses are for a very specific look, a 14mm on a full frame camera is going to provide a ton of distortion (think fisheye). If that’s what you’re after, fine, but for general landscapes I would recommend a far less distorted look. If you want Ansel Adams style framing, avoid super-wides altogether.

        As far as ND filters are concerned, I’m not sure you know the difference between an ND filter and a graduated ND filter (which Sam addressed) or you would use it a lot more. A graduated ND filter does what Sam described, an ND filter just stops down your light and is useless unless you really need a larger aperture or slower shutter. If you had used a graduated ND filter, you probably wouldn’t have had to do the bracketing method that you referenced in your tutorial…. food for thought.

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