Quick Tip: Shooting Shallow DOF Panoramas

Quick Tip: Shooting Shallow DOF Panoramas

You’ve probably never seen anything like a shallow depth of field (DOF)panorama. Known as the “Brenizer Method,” named for well-known NYC photographer Ryan Brenizer, who pioneered the technique. These photos have some super shallow depth of field. Today, I’ll show you the trick to creating these photos quickly and easily.


What is a Shallow DOF Panorama?

Many photographers (including yours truly) love shallow depth of field. It allows us to isolate our subject and gives a visually appealing effect. For this, we love to use lenses with wide open apertures, often choosing an aperture in the range of f/1.2 – f/2.0 for best results.

Equally important to the aperture choice is the focal length choice. This further affects the depth of field, so we will frequently choose a longer focal length like 85mm or 135mm. These are frequently go-to focal lengths for portrait photographers.

The problem is when we want to balance our subject with the environment. Using those long focal lengths is going to give us a tight composition that will probably be filled by our subject, unless we back far far away. Yet, we wouldn’t want to use a wide focal length because it’s not flattering. We’re in a tight spot, trying to balance shallow depth of field by using a long focal length and wanting to show the environment.

Enter the Brenizer method. We can combine a series of photos to get the best of both worlds. Shooting a shallow DOF panorama gives us a wide perspective to capture the environment, and since we shoot a series of fullsize frames, the shallow depth of field is preserved.


Getting Started

Shooting shallow DOF panoramas requires some special shooting techniques and ensuring that we nail our settings. Keep in mind that we are shooting a series of images to compile later in post production.

This situation really calls for putting the camera in full manual mode. We are relying on the “look” of each photo not changing, so we want to make sure we lock in our shutter speed, aperture, and ISO.

To get started, the first thing that I do is get all of my settings locked in. This includes locking focus after getting it the way that I want. From shot to shot, I don’t want any of my settings – particularly focus – to change.

I’ll begin shooting my frames. Typically, I shoot 9 frames while putting together a shallow DOF panorama. The first thing that I shoot is my subject, just because that’s the key part of the frame. From there, I move in a “Z” formation, to get the other 8 frames. I will start in the upper left hand corner, and shoot three frames for each row, keeping in mind that I already have a frame of my subject.

A key thing comes to mind while shooting these photos: we definitely want overlap in our frames. If we try and cut the frames close together, we’re going to end up not having overlap, and thus combining the frames in Photoshop won’t work.


Here, you can see the nine frames that I captured to put together the shallow DOF panorama. I shoot with quite a bit of overlap so that I’m not left short on images with blank spaces between the photos.

Post-Production

Putting together a shallow DOF panorama is easier than you think, thanks to the magic of Adobe Photoshop. It takes only a few clicks to put together the shallow DOF panorama.

Go ahead and start up Photoshop and make sure you know where your images are located on your computer. We are going to use Photoshop to combine the images into one shallow DOF panorama.

With our images set aside, we’re going to go to “File”, then “Automate”, and choose “Photomerge.” On the resulting menu, choose “Reposition” on the layout options, and then browse and choose all of the photos that you shot. After pressing okay, Photoshop will begin processing the images.

It may take a few minutes, but eventually it will return a combined panorama. With a bit of a crop, we have a resulting image that combines shallow depth of field with wide perspective. If you have big gaping areas, you will want to try shooting the images again, paying closer attention to lining it all up.


As always, Photoshop is amazing for putting things together automatically. With a bit of a crop, I have the image I want: shallow depth of field, along with an environmental perspective.

One cool thing here is that the resulting image is simply massive. Remember that we are combining a number of full resolution images, so the images lined up alongside each other are going to just build a larger and larger image.


Wrapping Up

If you’re looking to create something new, a shallow DOF panorama is a fairly easy-to-create image that can be put together quickly in post production. The method is a great way of combining shallow depth of field portraits with a wide angle perspective to show off the environment.

  • Joel

    I’ve been dying to try this out, just haven’t had the chance yet. Here’s a Flickr group to get the creative juices going:
    http://www.flickr.com/photos/eddnoble/sets/72157615020737948/

    Also, if you don’t have Photoshop, there’s tons of free/inexpensive stitching programs out there including a feature built into Windows Live Photo Gallery that does a pretty good job.

  • http://eliteportraits.net Jay

    FAIL. One NEVER cuts/crops a person in a pan. People can’t stay in the exact same position from shot to shot. It’s fine with still life, but people ALWAYS SWAY just a bit, it is in our biological nature. The subject is always shot first and all following shots are composed around the subject/1st shot. Also, your white balance is way off throughout the entire pan…gives weird mid-tone shadows. Oh, and AP priority actually works better than manual (especially with an EV+/- bump) -it let’s the same amount of light in from shot to shot and will keep your DOF constant.

    • http://www.danielsone.com Daniel S.

      I think you need to give Photoshop CS5 and CS6′s panoramic tools a try. The software is extremely good at blending images together seamlessly, even with swaying objects (flags, trees, people). You can then mask or clone out the errors and keep the portions that blend properly.

      Also, Andrew does say he shoots his subject first, then pans around for the rest of his frames. This gives the photographer the pose he wants and the software a good anchor point to stitch the surrounding images onto.

      His WB is fine. The white shorts are neutral, the shadow is neutral, and his skin looks natural. Don’t know what you’re seeing.

      AP wouldn’t work better than M because the metering system would adjust the shutter speed relative to the exposure compensation you’ve set. The exposure would change especially when the camera was aimed at the darker trees. You could use AE lock, but that’s not very practical as you would need to redo it with each shot.

      His end result doesn’t look like a “FAIL” to me because it actually worked.

    • http://www.cirkut.net Josh Allen

      Because the middle image (which I assume he took first) already had the person full in the frame, you don’t need to worry about cropping the person in the surrounding shots because you can fall back on the original one (which is already the picture you’re looking for) when you photomerge.

      I agree completely with Daniel. you want to keep all the settings the same through the shots (hence Manual mode). When you let in the same amount of light from different shots, you’re going to result in an even worse distribution of light throughout each shot (a photo with more woods will take in more light, which will blow out the ground, or at least lighten it too much).

      Thanks for the quick tip Andrew, I’ve never thought of using photomerge like this!

  • http://www.flickr.com/photos/tamirlan/ tim

    thanks for the article, Haven’t heard about this technique before, but if such technique require retouch, Isn’t it easier to do add extra dof in photoshop? in CS6 there special filter just for that…

  • http://www.fumblingwithfilm.com David

    I’ve heard this technique be referred to as different things in the past, most commonly it’s called the The Brenizer Method in the things I read, and you picked a great example. One thing to think about though, most wide aperture lenses have somewhat substantial vignetting when shot wide open, which you can see in the example above. It would be best to correct for that in Lightroom (or ACR/Photoshop) then build it. Even better, use the free panorama stitching program “Hugin”. It’s easy to use and corrects for vignetting and exposure/white balance differences if you don’t shoot with manual.

  • http://www.flickr.com/matt-402 matt

    Great article, man! I am a user of this technique as I know “expansion.” and I taught myself actually watching some print screen of photographers I’m a fan, like Joel (http://www.flickr.com/photos/joel_r/).
    I scoured a path with many mistakes until you get nice results, but I am still learning and this article serves to clarify some doubts. I always shoot in Manual, and as Daniel said, is the best thing to do. I also missed a lot when he left the white balance to “Auto”, and this caused a problem when it comes to post-processing. I’ll leave my flickr link to a parsed: http://www.flickr.com/matt-402