Quick Tip: Perfect Beach Exposures Every Time

Quick Tip: Perfect Beach Exposures Every Time

Why do cameras sometimes take the fun out of going to the beach? Not only is sand your enemy, the sun can be as well – and not only for sunburn. When the sun is very bright, your exposure is likely to be off if you leave your camera to pick the settings. This tip will help you get the settings right first time so you can spend more time enjoying your break and less time taking more photos “just to make sure.”


It’s Beach Time

It’s a white sunny beach, nothing can go wrong. Swimmers? Check. Sunscreen? Check. Camera? For sure! Let’s get a few shots before we lie down in the sun. Hang on, I can’t see the picture properly on the screen, it’s too dark. Never mind, auto mode will get it right.

Or will it?

Here’s a typical beach image, using the camera’s automatic exposure settings. Technology is smart nowadays, right

beach photography exposure

The funny looking box in the corner is a brightness histogram. Don’t be scared – this isn’t a maths lesson. Dark areas in the image are represented on the left of the graph, bright areas on the right.

Now here’s a shot taken a couple of minutes after the previous one. Same beach, same day – with just one simple setting change.

beach photography exposure

Exposure Compensation to the Rescue

What did I change? The exposure compensation. I told my camera “pick whatever exposure you want, then make it brighter again.” The problem is that cameras are programmed to assume the average brightness of a scene will be a predetermined value, regardless of what you are actually shooting.

The actual value is called 18% gray, meaning the average area of the scene being used for metering purposes reflects 18% of the light. Enough of the technical stuff, let’s move on.

As I’ve explained, on a bright beach, your camera will set the exposure to fit its formula, and it will get it wrong. To avoid being caught out like this while shooting on the beach, find your camera’s exposure value (EV) compensation, and set it to +1 or +2. The brighter the beach, the more you’ll have to crank it up.

The value +1 tells your camera to let more light into the camera, so the image will be brighter, also called “+1 stop.” Setting your exposure compensation to +2 will make the increase in brightness even greater.

Here’s a comparison between our two beach scenes:

beach photography exposure

Notice how in the first image, the histogram is predominantly bunched up in the middle? This is the camera seeing gray. The area in the histogram boxed in red shows the most common brightness level for the image. In the next image, the camera was forced to see brighter than gray, and the result is not only a histogram weighted to the right, but a pleasing exposure too!

It’s easy to see the brightness histogram for any image when it’s on the computer. In Photoshop look under View > Histogram and change the Channel setting to Luminosity. But how about in the field?

Many cameras now have a histogram function built in. This means you get to see the magical histogram right after taking the shot. Some cameras will even show you the histogram before taking the shot. How cool. Look up your camera manual to find out about your specific display settings.

beach photography exposure

Bright to the Right

Just remember “bright to the right” and you’ll be fine. When the scene is bright, make sure your histogram shows the values bunching together on the right. This means your exposure will look correct. Your camera will think it’s wrong, but you know better.

After trying this tip out for a few times, you will soon get the hang of intelligently predicting your exposures using the histogram and will be well on your way to improving your photography.

beach photography exposure

Kick Your Heels Up

So now you know how to trick your camera into shooting great pictures on the beach. The technique you have learnt today can also be used in the snow, as the camera’s metering will be confused in bright snow the same way as on a bright beach.

You can relax after all and get back to that sunbaking (or snowboarding), knowing for sure your images will turn out fine!

Tags: Tips
  • http://craigps.info CraigSnedeker

    Can this work for photographing black cars? When I photograph by car, it’s either dark with a well-exposed background, or the car looks good with a over-exposed background. I don’t know what to do. Photographing my parents silver car works out fine.

    • http://www.thedphoto.com/ Diana Eftaiha

      this has more to do with scene and sensor dynamic range. what you need to do is decide on your key tone (which i assume is the car) and expose for that. if you’re like me and don’t like HDR then knowledge of the zone system can really come in handy in tricky lighting situations like this one. what you need to know is that if the car is black or some other really dark tone, you put it at zone 3 which would mean a -2 exposure and let everything else fall where it may. you can also try shooting at times where the light is more to your advantage like during the golden hour instead of say midday sun, this will significantly reduce the contrast in your scene and enable you to capture much more overall detail

    • Chris

      For photographing cars I usually take shots at several exposures and use PhotoMatix to bring them together into a composite HDR image. I haven’t updated my Flickr in awhile but I found an old example:

      http://flic.kr/p/7QiATC

      All the shadows from the car and the difference between the black car and the light background make it hard to get all that data into one exposure.

    • http://ckpj.com Cameron Knight

      Hey Craig, photographing black shiny surfaces is tough. Try photographing it at night using a tripod and a long exposure. Or you could try using a flash to bring the exposure of the car up. You can also check out the fluorescent lighting tutorial on this site to see how you can light a car using those.

      • http://craigps.info CraigSnedeker

        Thanks guys!

        @Diana thanks I’ll try that next time I have a sunny day :)
        @Chris I don’t have a program yet that lets me merge images for HDR. :)
        @Cameron I love doing night photography :) But sometimes it’s hard to focus on a black car at night :P

  • Peter Krahulik

    Yes it will work, but you can do better than this. Set your camera to exposure metering to the “single point” setting. The small area in the middle of your scene will be properly exposed, so just point it to the car. Note however, that other areas tend to get under(over)-exposed stronger, if the overall scene contrast is to high. In such case you may wish to slightly reduce contrast setting for this kind of image.

  • Marius

    May I ask similar advises for film photography?

  • 7

    You could completely skip the automatic settings that require alot of guesswork (and allowing the camera to think for you, which gets the answer wrong too often to be useful) and go straight to manual.

    Click your exposure over to the right (or whichever direction the meter in your viewfinder moves when “over” exposing: some cameras like the nikon D3/D300/700/etc have the ability to flip-flop the dial direction AND the direction the meter displays) 1 to 1.7 stops, sometimes as much as 2. No need to bother with the histogram, except as a way to verify that highlights aren’t clipped (you could also do this with the ‘blinking highlights’ display).

    The reverse is also true: if you have an inherently dark scene, purposely under-expose by a stop or so. You have to fool the meter into sensor you what you want to see. This is difficult at best in any automatic mode.

    It’s all about exposing for the most relevant tone in your scene / subject.

    Moral of the story: Understand the camera controls (aperture, shutter, ISO) and how they inter-relate. Understand the meter, and what it tells you about the sensor. Use manual exposure to set the exposure YOU want, not what the camera guesses is correct. Good job to the author for introducing the mid-grey aspect of how sensors and the internal software works. Too many photographers don’t understand this concept.

    If this confuses anybody, reply to my comment and I’ll help as best I can.

    I always write a longer comment than I first intend.. heh.

    • http://www.facebook.com/janebreau1 Jane Breau

      The easiest method is to get the gray card out or use a meter and then nail the exposure every time. So easy to do and you can set up the colour in camera with the gray card as well. Sometimes a perfectly executed shot will have some clipping or blowouts depending on the contrast range. I once relied on the back of the camera and under exposed based on the blinkies on the back of the camera. Bad idea. I should have just let the sky blow out and nail the exposed of the main subjects.

  • jack

    For most people, the best thing about summer are the beaches. The hot sun, warm waters and refreshing beverages. following a few handy tips For Photography on the Beach and how to properly capture scenes, subjects and moments.

    i have same tips here, maybe its usefull
    http://photograpyreview.blogspot.com/2011/09/tips-for-photography-on-beach.html

  • Alexandre Gorian

    Hi, why high iso? 640, is it?