Introducing the Wonderful World of 50mm Prime Lenses

This entry is part 11 of 19 in the Lenses Session
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What do Henri Cartier-Bresson and Ralph Gibson have in common? They’re both famous photographers – yes. But something else – they both used a 50mm prime lens for much of their photography.

Why is this interesting? Well, if you’re like most contemporary photographers your first SLR came with a kit zoom lens in the range of around 18-55mm. These are useful lenses, but most photographers find as their experience grows that they soon outgrow the kit zoom lens and need something else. This brings us to a question that every photographer faces at some point – what second (or third or fourth…) lens would be most useful to me?


The Benefits of a 50mm Lens

This is tricky – everybody’s needs are different. If you’re interested in sports or nature photography, for example, you’ll need a long telephoto lens. But what if you just want a lens that will help you take better photos? Is this possible? Yes it is – and that’s where the 50mm prime lens comes in (used to take all the photos in this article).

Most likely you already own a zoom lens that covers the 50mm focal length. So why would you buy a 50mm prime lens? Kit zooms are a great introductory lens to photography. But there are some crucial differences that mean a 50mm prime lens is very different from the 50mm focal length setting on a kit zoom.

Aperture

Kit zooms have their limitations. Some of these limitations are physical. One is the maximum aperture, around f4 to f5.6 depending on the lens and the focal length you use it at. This slow maximum aperture makes it difficult to take photos in low light. It means you have to resort to using a tripod, flash or a high ISO setting to give you a fast enough shutter speed to hand hold the camera properly.

50mm prime lenses, on the other hand, have a maximum aperture of somewhere between f1.2 and f2, letting you hand hold photos in much lower light levels (they also give you a much brighter viewfinder, making it easier to see the subject in low light).

For example, this landscape was taken with a 50mm prime lens by the light of the setting sun. The light was very low and I wouldn’t have been able to hand-hold the camera if the maximum aperture was limited to f4 or f5.6.

50mm prime lens photography

Optical Quality

Another limitation of the standard zoom is the optical quality. They’re normally not bad – but they’re not great either. Compare the quality of your standard zoom to a professional quality optic and you’ll see a dramatic difference. The images from pro lenses are sharp and crisp, with far less flare and almost no chromatic aberrations.

But pro lenses are expensive, you say. And you’re right. Wouldn’t it be great if there was an pro quality lens that retailed for £100 pounds or so (or dollars or euro, depending on where you live). Well, there is – you’ve probably guessed it already – the 50mm prime lens. 50mm lenses have been around for decades and the optical design is pretty simple (they’re neither a telephoto nor a wide angle lens, which have more complex optical designs). They’re cheap to make and the optical quality is superb.

Depth of Field

The wide maximum aperture has another advantage – depth of field, or lack of it. At f2 (or f1.8 or f1.4 and so on) you’ll be amazed at how little depth of field there is. You can use this creatively to blur the backgrounds in your photos. It works beautifully with portraits, giving a creamy background blur. This portrait was taken at f1.8, as was the introductory portrait to this article:

50mm prime lens photography

And this the beautiful thing about 50mm prime lenses – they enhance your creativity. You can hand hold the camera in low light, taking advantage of the wonderful evening light for longer, without resorting to flash. Learning to use natural light increases your creativity and photographic skills.

You can use the narrow depth of field for all sorts of creative focusing effects. Again, you’re learning to see and think creatively. Keep doing this and one day you’ll find that you’re using the lens to ‘see’ – that is to take photos that represent your artistic and creative vision. This is a great moment for all photographers.

Lack of Zoom

The biggest disadvantage of zoom lenses is that they zoom. This isn’t a contradiction – zooming encourages photographers to be lazy. Not close enough to your subject? Then just zoom in. Too close? Zoom out. It’s convenient, but it doesn’t teach you anything about focal lengths.

With a 50mm prime lens, you can’t zoom. You have to physically get closer (or further away) from your subject. The perspective doesn’t change. You become intimately acquainted with the physical characteristics of your lens.

This portrait is a good example, I had to position myself in the right place to make this composition:

50mm prime lens photography

Lightweight Construction

Another advantage of 50mm prime lenses is that they are very light. This makes a big difference if you’re walking around all day with your camera gear. I’ve made the mistake of taking too many lenses at one time and then being too tired at the end of the day to enjoy taking photos.

When I used film cameras I was perfectly happy to use just two lightweight bodies – one with a 24mm prime lens and the other with a 50mm prime lens. I carried these around all day and never got too tired to take photos. It was a great combination and I never felt the need for more lenses. This photo was taken with a 50mm prime lens on a trip to Argentina:

50mm prime lens photography

50mm prime lenses also have a very pleasing perspective that matches the field-of-view of the human eye. They take photos that don’t have the sweeping lines or distorted perspective of images taken with wide angle lenses, or the compressed perspective created by telephoto lenses. This street photo is a good example:

50mm prime lens photography

Inexpensive

Did I mention that 50mm prime lenses are inexpensive? They certainly can be. The Canon ‘nifty fifty’ – its 50mm f1.8 lens – is a great example. It retails for less than a hundred pounds (or dollars or euros) and has superb optical quality. In fact, I recently took a photo with this lens and an EOS 5D Mark II (Canon’s 21.1 megapixel semi-professional full frame camera) and I was amazed at the quality when I enlarged it to one hundred percent.

There are trade-offs; the auto-focus isn’t as good as more expensive lenses and it has a plastic, not a metal mount. But you can’t argue with the price, or the quality, and the important thing is that it brings the experience of high quality optics within just about anyone’s reach.

This is the photo taken with the nifty fifty:

50mm prime lens photography

And this is a 100 per cent enlargement. You won’t get this quality with a kit zoom lens!

50mm prime lens photography

For more information about buying your own 50mm prime, be sure to read our article on The Benefits of Wide Aperture (And Choosing a Lens for Under $500).


50mm Prime Lenses and Digital SLRs

A lot of articles about 50mm prime lenses refer to them as standard lenses. I’ve avoided doing that because it’s no longer always the case. A standard lens is a lens that roughly matches the field-of-view of the human eye. It’s neither wide angle nor telephoto. If you have a 35mm film camera, a lens with a focal length of 50mm is a standard lens. 35mm film cameras were the norm for many decades, so 50mm prime lenses became known as standard lenses.

However, now the game has changed. If you’re lucky enough to own a full frame digital camera, then a 50mm prime lens is still a standard lens. But full frame digital cameras are expensive, and most photographers own cameras with smaller sensors.

A 50mm lens on one of these cameras is a short telephoto lens. Should you worry about this? Not at all. It’s still the same 50mm prime lens, it’s just that you get to use it as a short telephoto rather than a normal lens. For some photographers this is an advantage, because this focal length is ideal for portraits. Portrait and fashion photographers love this focal length. You can photograph someone’s face, throwing the background out of focus – wonderful!

This photo was taken on an EOS 40D with a 50mm prime lens. The lens is a short telephoto on this camera and, combined with a wide aperture, makes it easy to throw the background out of focus:

50mm prime lens photography

And if you’d like a normal lens for your cropped sensor camera, not a short telephoto lens, they’re still available. It just means that you should buy a 28mm or a 35mm prime lens, not a 50mm prime lens.


50mm Prime Lenses on Flickr

These are some of my favourite photographers on Flickr that use 50mm prime lenses in their work. Their work is inspirational and will give you an idea of the potential of 50mm prime lenses:

Chrissy White

50mm prime lens photography

December Sun

50mm prime lens photography

Idle a While

50mm prime lens photography

Milki.C

50mm prime lens photography

Tommy Oshima

50mm prime lens photography

Moaan

50mm prime lens photography

Carf

50mm prime lens photography

Thomas Shahan

50mm prime lens photography

50mm Prime Lens Flickr Groups

Find out more about the world of 50mm prime lens photography by exploring these Flickr groups for 50mm prime lens users:

50mm Journal

A group for photographers who use 50mm prime lenses to record the everyday details of their lives.

Canon EF 50mm f1.8 II

Photos taken exclusively with the Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 II lens – the ‘nifty-fifty’.

Nikkor 50mm 1.8

This group is for photos taken with any of Nikon’s Nikkor 50mm 1.8 lenses.

50mm f1.4 Shooters

This is a group for photographers using 50mm f/1.4 lenses, regardless of make.

Canon 50mm f0.95 “Dream Lens”

A group for photos taken with the extraordinary Canon 50mm f/0.95 lens – one of the fastest 50mm primes ever made.

50 for 50 (50mm for 50 days)

An unusual but imaginative project that caught my eye, the photographers in this group took photos for 50 days with their 50mm lenses between September and October 2009.

The Original 50mm Group

Pictures taken with 50mm prime lenses of any brand.

  • Nick

    Very cool. I always thought that 50mm lenses where quit dumb for the reason that all it did was made you get closer to the action. But now due to this article, I see that it;s much better for low light and much better for portraits due to great depth of field. I am now wanting a 50mm lens. I never thought I’d want one but now I certainly do. Great article. =)

  • http://www.hellonicolas.com Nicolas Elizaga

    I always knew I wanted one, but never quite knew why ;) Thanks! Spectacular photographs and great article on the lenses!

  • http://www.ai-development.com Ben

    Great article. I was already convinced about the usefulness of 50mm primes but it’s always good to read about them.

    A shame us Pentaxian don’t get a nifty fifty lens as easily. The closest you get is the FA 50mm f/1.7, but the price is 4 times what you pay for the canon…

  • http://wet-photo.blogspot.com/ WET

    Thank you for this article! I’ve planned to buy a prime lense a couple of months ago but I wasn’t sure if it would fit my needs. Now I’m gonna buy one ^^

  • http://www.ferrypasschier.nl Ferry

    I have the Nifty-Fifty too, but on a Canon 400D 1.6 cropbody…which makes it a 80mm lens :(
    I’m thinking of buying a 35mm prime lens now, so I’ll end up with 56mm.

    Good article and great photo’s!

  • http://www.parkylondon.com Paul Parkinson

    I think there is an important omission in your post. Henri Cartier-Bresson and Ralph Gibson did indeed use 50mm lenses for much of their work and the field of view and depth of field they produce are wonderous.

    The issue is that many of the entry levely and enthusiast level cameras such as the Canon 1000D all the way through to the 7D (I shoot Canon, I don’t know the Nikon equivalents) are APS-C cameras. As a result, if you are looking to shoot 50mm you will need to take into account the 1.6 crop factor built in to the system.

    For example, an 85mm lens on a Canon 5D Mark 2 will give an 85mm field of view. On a 50D (an APS-C camera) it will give an 136mm equivalent.

    Going the other way, if you want 50mm equivalent on APS-C you will need to shoot at [50mm/1.6] or 31.25mm lens. The nearest lens will be at 30mm. I have the Canon 50mm mkII prime and a Sigma 30mm. I use the Sigma way more.

    Hope this helps

    • http://www.twitter.com/jimb213 jim

      I have the Canon 28mm f/1.8 that I use with my 7D and it’s great! I love the photos I get with it. I still want the 50mm f/1.4 though. I borrowed a friend’s for an afternoon and got some of the best photos I’ve ever taken with it…

    • Gray

      The Sigma 30mm was my de facto lens before I upgraded to a full-frame DSLR. If you want to shoot in a true 50mm equivalent, it’s a great lens with a great feel to it, and it’s very affordable (though obviously not as cheap as the 50mm ƒ/1.4 lenses).

      • Gray

        Duh, I meant to write the 50mm ƒ1.8 lenses.

  • http://www.timrussellphoto.com Tim

    You can always try adapters for non-Pentax lenses. Nikon E Series 50mm lenses are all over eBay for ~$50. These are fantastic lenses from the ’70s which stop up to f/1.8. If you don;t mind shooting in full manual this is a good solution.

  • http://thephotophile.blogspot.com Lanthus

    Nice article, thanks.

    Many people look down on the humble 50, but there is a reason that seasoned pros have at least one in their bag all the time. It’s a great, sharp, fast life saver!

    I have had a 50 f1.8 for a while now for use on my old Nikon F801s, and have used it for anything from weddings to portraits to landscapes with great results. On my new D90 it’s great for portraits, but I found it a little limiting for a “normal” walkabout lens, due to the cropping effect, so I got the excellent Nikon 35 f1.8 and discovered to my delight that it’s even sharper than my old nifty fifty! And the AFS means it’s quieter too.

    Want pro results on a tiny budget? Get a nifty fifty!

  • http://kenhudak.com Ken

    I get plenty of exercise zooming with my feet with my 50mm, but I love it nonetheless. :)

  • bob

    Nice article.. I remember seeing one very similar to this a little bit ago.
    http://photo.tutsplus.com/tutorials/shooting/nifty-fifty-the-benefits-of-a-fixed-50mm-lens/
    Just a thought.

  • http://tylerwainright.com Tyler Wainright

    I love my Nikon f/1.4 but I don’t use it enough although I’m trying to force myself to use it more. Thank for all the links – I’m bookmarking this site so I can check them out later.

  • http://dwatermanphoto.co.cc David Waterman

    I love my 50mm 1.8 Lens :)
    I bought it for 40 bucks on ebay.. Its amazing here is a photo I got with it (its manual focus): http://www.flickr.com/photos/davidwaterman/4229440864/

  • http://lalengzuala.blogspot.com/ Lalengzuala

    http://www.flickr.com/photos/prettypony/tags/50mm

    Chrissie White doesn’t have anything tagged with 50mm.

  • http://shaneparkerphoto.com Shane Parker

    “the experience of high quality optics within just about anyone’s reach”

    I do not have the same experience. In comparison to my other primes, my Canon Nifty Fifty produces horrendous bokeh, is very loud when focusing (due to the horrible, non-usm focus mechanism), not to mention very slow when focusing and is nearly impossible to focus in manual mode. It’s made of cheap, light plastic that feels like it’s going to fall apart, don’t even think about taking it out in the rain. There is a reason you can get the thing for $100.

    Still, it is a great introduction to prime lens photography as it gets the photographer moving and forces him to really think about scene and camera placement. The image quality is certainly decent, but I wouldn’t put it up there in the echelons of the “high quality optics” category.

    • http://shaneparkerphoto.com Shane Parker

      FYI, a good example of the horrible bokeh produced by these “Nifty Fifty’s” can be seen in your third example of the two girls: http://phototuts.s3.amazonaws.com/143_worldof50mm/04.jpg

      Look at that scrambled egg mess of OOF area, it’s abysmal! I prefer the creamy smoothness of true quality optics from other prime lenses (although there are even some expensive primes that produce less than ideal OOF creaminess, I’d wager they’re all quite a bit better than the cheap 50′s primes).

      • http://www.renlish.com Erin

        Sounds to me that you got yourself a very dodgy lens to begin with. I shoot Nikon and the Nikkor 50mm 1.8 is stunning – tack sharp and picture perfect. I’ve always been extremely impressed with the optics of my 50mm and 35mm primes (the latter especially) and use them to take most of my portraits.

        • http://shaneparkerphoto.com Shane Parker

          Did you read my comments at all? Having a “dodgy copy” has nothing to do with the poor bokeh caused by the aperture blades and other optical characteristics of the lens. I know nothing about the Nikkor 50mm, I’m referring directly to the cheapy Canon 50mm. ALL of the photo examples using these cheap 50mm lenses have very poor bokeh in comparison to other, better lenses.

          You don’t really think the image quality is as good on a $79 lens as a $1k+ lens, do you? C’mon.

  • http://www.vaporizerkits.com Zephyr Ion

    Although it sounds weird, ever since I damaged my 18-70mm kit lens, I’ve been using a 50mm 1.8f and never looked back. It makes you a lot more creative, not to mention the quality you can get with it.

  • dubbnasty

    i ordered canons 35mm f.2 for my t2i and hopefully it’ll show up tomorrow. I cant wait to use this lens, this article helps me with my buyers guilt.

  • http://serialphotography.com Alastair

    “This isn’t a contradiction – zooming encourages photographers to be lazy. Not close enough to your subject? Then just zoom in. Too close? Zoom out. It’s convenient, but it doesn’t teach you anything about focal lengths.”

    This seems a rather strange thing to say. I’m not quite sure how using zoom lenses can be considered lazy? What’s lazy about using the zoom ability of a zoom lens? I vaguely understand what you’re getting at and I’ve read this same claim elsewhere, but I don’t buy it at all.

    How is it lazy to use a zoom lens, which has a multitude of focal lengths and as such differing viewing angles? Using a 50mm lens and stepping forwards or backwards is NOT the same as zooming from 50mm out to 24mm or to 70mm on a 24-70mm zoom lens, for example. You get completely different viewing angles and you’ll get completely different compositions.

    I shoot with prime lenses only. For shooting 35mm/full frame DSLR, I have 20, 24, 50 and 85mm primes in my bag and nothing else. I also shoot large format (a Sinar F2 monorail) and use 90, 150 and 210mm lenses with my large format camera. Does swapping lenses out rather than moving my camera backwards or forwards constitute laziness too? No, it gives me a different perspective of the scene I’m shooting.

    So as much as using zoom lenses doesn’t “teach you anything about focal lengths”, using prime lenses doesn’t teach you anything about viewing angles either.

    • http://www.thedphoto.com Diana Eftaiha

      zoom lenses do make you lazy a bit. you do have a valid point however but i think what the article is trying to say is that using prime lenses would encourage you to physically change your point of you thus training you to always exhaust all compositional possibilities of a scene before moving on, which is good exercise in my opinion

      • http://serialphotography.com Alastair

        I still disagree. Even with a zoom lens, you’re required to physically move your position if the composition isn’t correct. Like I say, two metres forward with a 50mm prime lens gives you a completely different perspective if your scene than staying in the same place but zooming in to 70mm. I guess we’ll have to agree to disagree on this one :) I’m not defending zoom lenses.. like I say, I only shoot with prime lenses (including a 50mm!)

  • http://www.thedphoto.com Diana Eftaiha

    i love my 50mm f/1.8 lens. its on my cam 99.99% of the time though i got the cheap $100 one so image sharpness is not that good and chromatic aberration is a killer but once i get some extra cash a good 50mm lens is definitely on top of my list

  • http://vinhdesigns.com Vinh

    great article, definitely in the market for one. 2nd example pic isn’t the best imo for dof

  • http://www.adamleahyphotography.com Adam

    Amen brother.
    35 is the new 50 for many. Canon’s 35f2, and Nikon’s new 35f1.8 are super-duper.

  • SAn

    Nice article, thanks! And i loved the pics from Iruya ;)

  • anj

    er….at the cost of sounding a complete novice (i have just purchased a Nikorr 50mm 1.8 Prime lens), can i please ask how do i set the numbers on both the rings of the lens? some times, after taking a few shots, if i set my lens on f1.8, i cannot seem to be able to lock the aperture on the lens and often “error” starts flashing on the disply. why is that so? hope i am making sense!!!

    • Ashok Rathinam

      anj
      trust by this time you have learned to set the rings
      if not
      here is something I hope which may help.
      Don’t think very big of me I am a novice.
      I had similar experience when I bought it.
      My friend taught me to adjust the rings as follows.
      There are two red marks on the body of the lens.
      There is a knob with a red dot below the letter ”D” (of 50mm 1:1.8 D)
      push it towards the front of the lens
      or towards the distant adjusting ring
      or focus ring.(This is the one which rotates according to the distance of the subject you focus isn’t it?) Remember the knob will never clicks to its place unless correctly set.
      That is….. the two red dots will be exactly be in one line.
      ( in my case it was already pushed to the front !!!!)
      now rotate the aperture ring so that the mark f22 comes just behind the white dot
      which is marked on the body of the lens, just in front of the aperture ring.
      once it is set like that the error message will disappear on the control panel
      and the display will show whatever aperture you have previously set
      via the sub command dial or aperture setting dial on the body of your camera.
      now push back the knob with red dot towards the opposite side
      -or mount side-or where the aperture mark 2.8 on the ring (it will be exactly just below the red dot)
      The knob will click to its correct position. The red dots will be aligned and will be in one line.
      you need not adjust it any more
      (unless you are using something like extension tube or reversal ring or teleconverters. by that time you will be an expert!!!!)
      Hence forth
      all you have to do is set the aperture of your desire(even f1.8) via the sub command dial,
      whatever be your shooting mode. Auto or manual.
      the lens will behave like the way you want.
      Trust this is suggestion is of some help.
      Have great shooting days. :-)

  • W. Keith McManus

    I’ve been using a f/1.8 28mm Canon lens on a Canon 50D – works out to be just about a 45mm equivalent focal length on that camera.

  • http://www.itoni.me Toni

    Nicely written article. I have just bought a 50mm f/1.8 prime lens for my Sony Alpha! It retailed around 100 pounds and I’m looking forward to start experimenting with it this weekend.

  • http://www.thephotophile.com Lanthus

    Just to add to what I posted above, I just posted a little about using primes for landscapes on my blog here: http://thephotophile.blogspot.se/2012/06/normal-focal-length-prime-lens-as.html

  • http://www.robertsarte.tumblr.com robertsarte

    I am using my friend’s 50mm lens for how many days now. I could say that I fell in love with it! The depth of field have blown me away!

    Here are some of my shots using a Canon 50mm f/1.8

    http://www.flickr.com/photos/rsjr95/8096131302/

    http://robertsarte.tumblr.com/post/33552776187/they-are-having-fun-with-the-bubbles-hahaha

  • Jorge

    I wanted to find out more about 55mm and found the concept of a normal lense, perfect for somebody who is starting to get into photography. Great article, thanks sir!