A Simple Guide to Choosing Your First Lens
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A Simple Guide to Choosing Your First Lens

This entry is part 10 of 19 in the Lenses Session
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This article is about the single most important piece of equipment you’re going to buy: the lens. There are myriads of different lenses out there, and it’s easy to get lost. But do not despair – this guide will help you make the right choice. First I’m going to talk about the different characteristics of a lens – among other things we’ll learn about zoom vs. prime lenses, and why the f-number is so important. Then I’ll move on to recommend a few lenses for each different budget!


Characteristics

Each lens is different. At first it can be a little bit intimating to navigate your way through the maze of choices, but once you learn the basics you can easily decide what you need and which lens satisfies your requirements.


Zoom vs. Prime

The biggest difference between lenses is their ability or inability to zoom. With a zoom lens you can – what a surprise – zoom. But it comes at a price: the image quality suffers and usually (and this is the crucial one) they have a lager f-number. I’ll talk about f-numbers in a second. You can easily spot a zoom-lens as it has a range of focal-lengths. Just take a look at the label:

Choosing Your First Lens

The first number is always the focal-length. In this case it’s 18-270mm. So the range for this lens is 18mm to 270mm. A prime lens would only have one number, like 50mm. While the majority of photographers usually opt for a zoom lens, prime-lenses have their advantages: they are excellent for portraits, and are fantastic in low-light situations.


F-Number

Don’t underestimate the f-number, like I did at first. It has an influence on lots of things. But what does the number mean? Well, to put it simply, it tells you how much light makes it through the lens and hits the sensor. The smaller the number the wider your camera’s aperture is able to open. Usually it ranges between f/0.9 and f/6.3.

It’s worth noting that zoom lenses don’t always have a fixed f-number. As you can see in the image above, my 18-270mm lens ranges between f/3.5 and f/6.3 – which can be a pain. You can only set your aperture as wide as the f-number, and – in most cases – the lower this number, the better. The are a whole range of benefits that are too extensive to go into in this post alone!


Image Stabilization (IS/VR/DI)

Modern lenses often have some kind of image-stabilization on board. Canon calls it “Image Stabilization”, Nikon “Vibration Reduction” and Tamron “Digitally Integrated”. This is great! They basically let you use a longer shutter speed while maintaining a steady image – to a degree! Usually it’s built into the lens, but a few manufacturers are starting to integrate it into the camera body itself. If you are looking for a new lens, look out for one with this handy feature.


Different Lens Choices

Now that you know what to look out for when buying a lens, I can give you an overview over the market and recommend a lens or two.


Wide-Angle Lenses

Choosing Your First Lens

These are mostly used for stunning landscape images. As it isn’t hard to get a sharp shot with a low focal-length and the landscape doesn’t move, a larger F-Number will suffice. If you’re not on a budget, grab yourself a Nikkor AF-S 14-24mm f/2.8. To date it is the sharpest lens, but with a price tag: the street price is about $2,000. Although it’s quite expensive, with such unbelievable sharpness it’s still a bargain – a brilliant piece of engineering.

If you’re looking for something cheaper, I can recommend the Tokina AF 12-24mm f/4. For around $500 you’ll get a solid lens with the only downsides being the strong vignetting and the barrel distortions at 12mm.

If you’re looking for a fisheye, the Tokina AF 10-17mm f/3.5-4.5 could be a good choice. You don’t get the best optics, but since a fisheye is an effect-lens this isn’t necessarily all that important. It’s still sharp enough for any purpose and you get good value for your around $600.


Medium-Range Lenses

Choosing Your First Lens

This is your standard lens, which will work fine most of the time. To some people, a mid-ranged lens seems boring, because it doesn’t deliver an extreme point-of-view. But think again – this can be an advantage if you need to take a picture “as the eye sees it”. Think about shooting a portrait. This can’t be done with a wide-angle lens.

If you have some money to spend, grab yourself either the Nikkor AF-S 24-70mm f/2.8G ED ($1,700) or the Canon EF 24-70 mm f/2.8 L USM ($1,400) depending on your system. Looking for a bargain? Then take a look at the Tamron AF 28-75mm f/2.8. It may not be perfect, but can be picked up for a bargain second hand so you don’t have to dig deep in your wallet to afford it. And it delivers a lot for the money you spent: image quality, sharpness, build quality, compact size etc.

A real classic, and favourite of portrait photographers, is a fixed focal length 50mm lens. They are extremely fast, the images are crisp, they work well in low-light situations and best of all, they train your body, as you have to use your legs to “zoom”. A whole range of different lenses are available depending on your camera type, and budget.


Telephoto Lenses

Choosing Your First Lens

Fancy yourself as a wildlife or sport photographer? Then you are in need of a telephoto lens. It brings far away objects nearer, and flattens the distances between objects: just look at the sports page in any newspaper. These images are likely shot with a telephoto lens. Notice how the spectators appears to be the same size as the players, despite being 100 yards further away?

These are the most expensive lenses, due to the fact that it is difficult to build a high quality one. The light has to travel a long way before it reaches the sensor, so it’s hard to conserve it. If you are an enthusiastic amateur, consider grabbing the Nikkor AF-S 70-200mm f/2.8 G IF-ED VR or the Canon EF 70-200mm f/2.8 USM L. The Nikkor has the better image quality and an image stabilization system (VR), which is quite important to have on a telephoto.

Both have a fast autofocus which is another important thing to look for on a telephoto – just think about trying to shoot fast moving animals. A good third-party alternative is the Sigma AF 70-200mm f/2.8 ($800). It’s almost comparable in terms of quality, but doesn’t come with image stabilisation. You decide!


Super-Zoom Lenses

If you’re on holiday, wandering around a town, you don’t necessarily want to carry all your lenses around all day. This is where super-zoom lenses come in. They provide a vast focal-length range. The best deal around is the Tamron AF 18-270mm f/3.5-6.3 DI II ($625). Since it the newest of all super-zoom lenses, it dominates the market fairly comprehensively.

The only downside is a slow auto-focus, which makes it a pain to shoot wildlife, insects or any fast moving subject. And the autofocus won’t work properly on 270mm, as it needs at an aperture of least f/5.6. On the other hand, it has a superior image quality (compared to other super-zooms of course) and image stabilization. So grab it if you’re looking to shoot landscapes, architecture, portraits and close-ups with only one lens.


Macro Lenses

Choosing Your First Lens

Finally, we come to macro lenses. If you have a Nikon body, there is only one choice you really have: the famous Nikkor AF-S 105mm f/2.8G IF-ED VR. It’s one of the sharpest, fastest lenses ever built, along with packing image stabilization. You can get it for around $800, but it’s worth every penny. It’s just pure fun to work with.

Canon offers the Canon EF 100mm f/2.8 USM macro ($600) which is still a great lens. One big downside though is the lack of a image stabilization system, which is very important when shooting macros. For half the price of Nikons lens, you’ll get a Sigma AF 105mm f/2.8 EX macro DG (around $400). It’s inferior in almost every aspect to the competition, but the low price is great if you’re not sure whether macro photography is something you want to pursue.


Experiment, and Have Fun!

Choosing a lens doesn’t need to be a difficult task. It’s an exciting process, that always gives you the chance to learn more about photography and improve your skill set. Remember that the second hand market for lenses is always worth considering, and it gives you a fairly inexpensive way to experiment with different lenses and settle upon a kit that’s right for you.

Have fun, and let us know in the comments which lenses we would find in your photography bag!

Tags: Basix
  • elganso

    For Canon Telephotos, I’d highly recommend checking out the 70-200mm f/4 with IS. The sharpness of this lens is amazing, it’s much lighter than the 2.8 you recommended and contains image stabilization, which helps make up for the slightly slower speed. Pricing is a bit lower than the non-IS 2.8:

    http://www.amazon.com/Canon-70-200mm-Lens-Digital-Cameras/dp/B000I1X3W8/ref=dp_cp_ob_p_title_3

  • Barbara

    I was considering the Tokina 11-16 for a wide angle, but now wonder if the 12-24 would be a better buy. I am still a bit of a novice regarding the technical aspects of photography, but like to shoot landscapes/cityscapes in low light. I currently am only using the Nikon 18-105 kit lens with my D90. Anyone have any thoughts on which would be better? Thanks.

  • http://jazdesign.co.uk Jaz

    Thanks for posting this! At the end of the year I’m thinking of getting a new SLR body, I have a Pentax at the moment and may well stick with them or switch over to Canon/Nikon. I’m undecided! Anyway, if I did stick with the Pentax I’m assuming there’s an adaptor one can get for the K-mount with these lenses you listed? Or does one have to hunt down similar lenses? More research required on my part! The post is useful though, looking at the lens prices – definitely useful!

    Thanks!

  • http://vinhdesigns.com Vinh

    great info thanks.

    minor typo: ” have a lager f-number” (**larger** f-number)

    • http://www.umbraprojekt.pl mingos

      And I always thought photography and (lager) beer didn’t mix. Guess I was wrong…

      • http://www.vaporizerkits.com Zephyr Ion

        Have a larger lager, now we’re talking.

  • Dave Bachman

    Good article, but the Tamron image stabilisation system is called Vibration Control, or VC, not Di. The Di relates to image circle size and advanced multicoatings on the rear elements to reduce stray reflections.

  • http://russelljack.com russell

    canon does have a 100mm f/2.8L IS macro – its really nice, too.

  • http://www.nehalpatel.com/photos Nehal

    My first DSLR lens was a 18-200mm Nikkor. I love it for its versatility, but as mentioned in the article, the one downside is its speed. I also have a 50mm prime, which is wicked fast – now I need to spend more time using it and getting comfortable zooming with my feet!

  • http://www.canonefmount.com EF mount

    When shooting macros, IS/VR/VC/OS is not that important as it gives you only a fraction of full capability at close-focus distances. Canon claims their 100L IS macro lens to have 4-stops efficiency but only 1-stop at 1:1 magnification.

    Besides, macro lenses did not have IS/VR/VC/OS for a long time, it’s only issue of modern lenses, so I would not hesitate recommend Canon 100/2.8 nonL without any doubt. Optically it’s par on par with its L cousin and only lacks better build and IS, which IMO can be not that much difference to invest another 400$ for that.

    Sorry to say that, but even if I like Phototuts+, this article deserved more research and more accurate info…

  • Karim M.

    My first lens was a canon 35mm 2.0; i can highly recommend it! its very cheap (around 300 bucks) and takes beautiful pictures. yes its lacking zoom, but in my eyes thats even an advantage for a beginner, because you learn more about how to create good images through the restrictions the lens gives you. well, I would recommend everyone to get one of these, since its also a great lens for shooting film with your SLR!

  • http://www.espendreyer.com Espen Dreyer

    I’m saving up money to buy a telephoto lens, but can not afford the Nikkor AF-S 70-200mm f/2.8. Does anyone know how the Sigma AF 70-200mm f/2.8 lens is compared with the one from Nikon? Is there anything negative to say about it, or is it a good buy?

    • http://cameraguyzack.blogspot.com Zack Jones

      I don’t have any hands on experience with the Sigma lens but know a few Nikon photographers that have used it and have been pleased with it. If you can possibly hold off until you save enough for the Nikkor lens I’d do that (and don’t forget about trying to buy a used version of the Nikkor lens). My thinking is the camera manufacturers know their camera bodies best and will produce the best lens to work with their bodies. The 70-200 focal range is a very nice range. I mostly use mine at 200mm.

  • http://www.visionsbyvicki.com Vicki

    While I find the information here to be helpful and interesting, it’s also showing a bias. You give great info on the Nikkor lenses, but fall flat on the Canon side of the aisle…others have pointed out that the Canon 70-200 that you mentioned also comes in IS, which IS the comparable one to the Nikkor one. You omitted the fact that Canon makes a superb 70-200 WITH image stabilization. I can fully understand a Nikon shooter knowing more about the Nikon lenses, but if you write an article, you should learn about other manufacturers.

    • http://www.kennethreynolds.com Ken Reynolds

      I totally agree! I owned the Canon 70-200 f/2.8L IS lens for almost two years before selling it to accommodate changing photography needs. This may begin a flame war (hopefully not), but I believe the Canon 70-200 f/2.8 IS to be superior to Nikon’s version in every way. Anyone who has shot with the Canon version has agreed that it is practically flawless, if such a thing can be achieved in photographic lenses. Sharpness was parallel to none, as was overall image quality.

      Also, if one needs a better range on the telephoto end of zoom lenses, for Canon users the 100-400 f/4.5-5.6L IS is an excellent lens, especially when shooting wildlife or aircraft with a crop-sensor body.

  • http://www.foviso.com Foviso

    There is just one Tamron for Medium-Range Lenses
    Tamron AF 17-50mm F/2.8 XR Di-II LD SP ZL Aspherical (IF) Zoom Lens.

  • http://www.kennethreynolds.com Ken Reynolds

    Also, Canon users would be well-served to take a look at the 17-40 f/4L wide-angle zoom lens for landscape photography. It is an absolutely amazing lens with breathtaking image quality. And, compared to Canon’s 16-35 f/2.8L II, distortion is almost non-existent, especially when used on a crop-sensor body such as the 50D or 7D.

    The 17-40 is on my 40D 90% of the time and has been an invaluable tool in creating some of my best landscape and nature photographs.